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Temple Tours Travels

Shri Mahaveerji Jain Temple: A Family Pilgrimage

November 6, 2025
Shri Mahaveerji Jain Temple in Karauli, Rajasthan in the evening.

I’ve visited very few Jain religious sites, the most notable being my visit to Shravanbelagola.  A few months ago I also got the chance to visit the Shri Mahaveerji temple in the Karauli district of Rajasthan, another important Jain pilgrimage site.

The temple is regarded as a Digambar Jain Atishaya Kshetra, which means signifying a miraculous site within the Digambar Jain tradition. Lord Mahaveer, the 24th tirthankara (an enlightened spiritual teacher who has conquered the cycle of birth and death), is the principal deity here.

The Road to Mahaveerji

…began with a plan.

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Pregnancy/Parenting Notes Travels Yoga & Vedanta Philosophy

A Shopaholic Mom Wonders – How Much Is Too Much?

September 5, 2025
Practicing mindful parenting in Sri Lanka.

The “Problem” of Plenty

As people who can provide for their children, we’re constantly grappling with the question: how much is too much when it comes to things? I believe that’s at the heart of conscious parenting, making intentional choices rather than giving in to excess. From the moment Kalindi was born, there’s been no dearth of clothes, toys and general stuff. I remember thinking, we had enough things to last until she started school. A year and a half later, I know that to be true.

A friend of mine used to lament that her family was plagued by ‘the problem of plenty’. Every time I heard her say that, something inside me would instinctively recoil. I wondered how she could complain about having too much in a world where people struggled for the basics. I’d flinch every time I heard, hoping one day she would see the light and find a solution for her so-called ‘problem’.

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Travels

The Thenkani Organic Farm Retreat

January 30, 2025
In good company.

We look very happy here, but just a minute ago we were wondering about the salt in the tea.

Last weekend was our first weekend getaway for 2021.  Our friends were celebrating their 13th wedding anniversary and we decided to make a trip out of it.  As city dwellers we’re always looking for some time out in the great outdoors, sipping some great coffee to the song of early morning birds, and telling stories under the stars around a bonfire.  Although Thenkani Organic Farm Retreat advertises itself as a perfect relaxed weekend away from home, it was anything but that.

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Travels

Colonial Echoes and Gelato Flavors: Mysore’s Hidden Charms

September 2, 2024
The Metropole Hotel in Mysore has interesting nooks that make for great reading corners.

Our recent holiday to Mysore had a hint of colonial charm and was peppered with interesting flavors of gelato…

I believe there’s a difference between traveling and holidaying, and both are mutually exclusive.  When I travel I see, observe, learn and do.  When I holiday I assimilate.  On our recent visit to Mysore, I found myself appreciating its tranquil charm in a way I hadn’t before. The broad, tree-lined avenues, the elegant colonial architecture, and the notable absence of towering buildings and construction sites transported me to a bygone era.  I could almost picture a white Ambassador “speeding” importantly down the road…

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Travels

2 Days in Bangalore (Beyond MG Road)

August 25, 2024
I love this picture of St. Mark's Cathedral from Cubbon Park, it really gives a sense of how large the park was once upon a time.

I love this picture of St. Mark’s Cathedral from Cubbon Park, it really gives a sense of how large the park was once upon a time.

Kalindi’s arrival has brought many good things into our lives, including dear friends who had lost touch over the years.  I guess the arrival of new life is about hope and optimism, something that everyone can relate to.

I’m in touch with some of my earliest yoga students.  Recently Louise and her daughters visited us in Bangalore.  I used to teach Louise in Wellington, and reading this blog that she wrote about my classes back then made me nostalgic.  It’s been about 12 years since we last met!

What do you do with friends who’re coming to Bangalore for the first time?  I mean there’s only so much coffee you can drink as you marvel at the great weather.  I’ve lived in Bangalore since 2005, and pride myself in knowing a bit more about the city than the average resident.  So I took it on as a challenge and asked myself how I can showcase my city beyond MG Road.

So we had one of those slow weekends, the kind where you can slow down and fall in love with Bangalore all over again.  This is how you can make the most of 2 days in Bangalore…

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Newborn Pregnancy/Parenting Notes Travels

5 Tips for Traveling With a Newborn

June 18, 2024

Enjoying a ride in a vintage Ambassador in Hampi.

Traveling with a newborn is an adventure.  When I fell pregnant our friends told us to travel in the first three months of the baby’s life.  They stay exactly where you left them and as long as they are fed, clean and rested – things are good.  While I agree with this, it’s not so simple.  A crying baby in the car, dirty diapers, bored baby….how do you manage all this and still enjoy the trip?

We’ve been on two trips with Kalindi (so far).  Both trips were between 2-4 nights long.  We planned these holidays such that we would have family time interspersed with some sightseeing.  Which brings me to my first tip.

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Travels

Dev Deepawali – A Well Kept Secret

December 15, 2023

The bridges across the Ganges are also decked up for Dev Deepawali.

I wrote quite a few blogs about my trip to Varanasi last year.  I mention sailing the Ganges to look at the ghats, the Yogini temple, the magnificent Ganga aarti etc.  Last year I heard about Dev Deepawali – a local festival celebrated on a grand scale fifteen days after Diwali is celebrated across the country.  At the time I remember thinking I’d love to see that, and hopefully next year.

I forgot all about that until my sister in law asked me about my plans over dinner one night.  Within two days I had roped in another friend who roped in another … and soon the four of us were off to the oldest city in the world.

The Celebrations

Dev Deepawali can literally be translated as the ‘Diwali of the Gods’.  Although now Dev Deepawali has started gaining traction -it’s basically a local festival, celebrated only in Varanasi.  Women dress up in beautiful saris, apply henna on their hands and wear the prettiest jewellery.  The high point of the event is the lighting of the ghats with a million (not an exaggeration) diyas.  In addition to this, there is a magnificent sound and light show depicting the story of Dev Deepawali, that you can watch.  This year diplomats from 70 countries attended the celebrations.

The best way to experience Dev Deepawali is from a boat on the Ganges.  The Government of UP organises special cruises on the Ganges and tickets for these are exorbitant.  So exorbitant in fact that we didn’t bother checking the prices and decided to get a smaller row boat and split the cost between us.  We were 10 people and we split the Rs. 20000/- between us.  It’s a good idea to work out a deal with a boatman in advance because the boats sell out fast.

The Boat Ride

Once you’re on the boat you’re required to wear a lifejacket.  Police petrol the waters to make sure everyone is safe and that there are no accidents.  The ride is basically sailing from the first ghat to the last and observing the different decorations.  The entire Ganges had a festive vibe, and it’s truly unique – you won’t see the Ganges like that any other time of the year.  We spent about two hours on the boat, and there was never a dull moment.  It’s worth planning a trip tp Varanasi just to experience this festival.  Also, don’t miss the fireworks.

The Man Singh Observatory

Another place that had a superb sound and light show is the Man Singh Observatory on the Man Singh Ghat.  The observatory was constructed by Raja Man Singh of Rajasthan and contains various types of compasses to measure the position of the planets and stars.  These measurements were used to tell time and to make the lunar and solar calendars.  Today these compasses make for interesting photo ops.

The Observatory was also a palace, and its first floor is now a museum cum exhibition space.  There are interactive exhibits about different aspects of Varanasi, such as the art, the folk dances, the weaving and the architecture.  Certainly makes for an interesting afternoon.

The main hall on the first floor (which is humongous), has been converted into the sound and light show theatre.  The show is only about 15 minutes long and shows how the Ganges came to Varanasi.  However, it’s only in Hindi, so difficult to understand for non-Hindi speakers.  But I would still recommend it for it’s amazing picture quality.

The Kashi Vishwanath Temple

No trip to Varanasi is complete without a darshan of the Kashi Vishwanath Temple.  This historic (and controversial) temple draws thousands of pilgrims every year and it’s particularly crowded on the Dev Deepawali weekend.  The temple is significant because it’s one of the twelve jyotirlingas, places where it is believed Shiva appeared as a long fiery pillar of light.  This legend makes the jyotirlingas special, and contributes to the energy that is palpable here.  There are long lines for the darshan, but a ticket can be booked online, and this might reduce the wait time.  If you go early morning, you’re less likely to run into the surging crowds.

A Walking Tour

The ghats of Varanasi can be explored on foot and lately many people have started offering walking tours.  This is a fabulous way to explore the ghat area, and if you find a good and knowledgeable guide, you can learn a lot about the history and legends associated with the oldest city in the world.  Our tour took us through the ghats, on a boat to the Alamgiri Mosque to the bylanes of Varanasi and finally to a great lassi and malayyo stall.

Alamgiri Mosque

Ashrams Travels

My Fortuitous Meeting with the Hugging Saint

October 28, 2023

 

Amritapuri Ashram, birthplace of the Hugging Amma

A view of Amritapuri Ashram, birthplace of the Hugging Saint, from the 9th floor of the residential building. You can see the Kali temple on the left and the ocean in the horizon.

Over a long brunch last Sunday my friend Sowmya told me she was heading to Trivandrum to meet her guru.  “Who’s your guru?” I asked her.  “Amritanandi Maa,” she said, as though to have the world famous Hugging Saint as your guru is the most natural thing possible.

Decades ago I read a fun and entertaining book called Holy Cow, where I first came across the Hugging Saint.  I didn’t think then that one day I’d actually get a chance to meet the saint.  I rescheduled/cancelled a bunch of classes and on a sunny Wednesday afternoon Sowmya and I were on our way to Amritapuri.  The countryside was lush and the glimpses of the ocean made the journey enjoyable.

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Travels

Goa, Off the Beaten Track

September 23, 2023
Koti Tirth Tali

Koti Tirth Tali. There are supposed to be 108 niches carved in the walls.

I’ve been to Goa so many times I feel I should be awarded a honorary PhD on it. Goa exists in our collective psyche as the ultimate vacation destination – a coming of age for young people, an exciting place to have your bachelorette or long awaited girls’ trip and an opportunity to gaze at the vast blue sea for those of us landlocked.

Things changed a bit during the pandemic when everyone decided to work from Goa. In fact, we contemplated it too and found ourselves in Goa scouting for viable villas to move into. That’s a story for another blog. Suffice it to say that because tourism to Goa is an unprecedented high, travellers now look for activities off the beaten track. My last trip to Goa was certainly that.

We formed an assorted mix of four – my mother in law, her sister, a dear friend of her’s, and me. We were game for an adventure.

Divar & Chorão Island

The first day we decided to go to Divar Island. The Mandovi River around Goa is home to many islands, all of which have and mangrove forests, churches, temples and grand old Portuguese villas. The night before I’d looked up how to get to the island and found that we had to take the ferry to Ribandar port. Unfortunately Google directed us to a port slightly before Ribandar, and not knowing any better, we took the wrong ferry and ended up in Chorão Island. We decided to make the most of it and drove around the island for a while. The island is lush, green and largely uninhabited. However, there are several churches and chapels dotting the greenery. The most significant one I spotted was the chapel for St. Teresa of Kolkata (Mother Teresa). A surprise find was The Yoga Institute, a swanky residential yoga centre. (Something to keep in mind for my next yoga retreat.)

Divar island proved to be a bit more eventful. We spent some time at Our Lady of Piety Church (Nossa Senhora de Piedade). The church and it’s adjacent graveyard lie atop a hill. The church was under renovation, so we spent some time walking around and taking in the panoramic view of the island from that vantage point. You can see the Mandovi river and the mangrove forests around it. You can also see a Hindu temple, with its distinct Goan architecture, close to the church.

Hindu temple from the hillock of Our Lady of Piety Church. you can see the Mandovi in the distance. Note the unique temple design.

Hindu temple from the hillock of Our Lady of Piety Church. you can see the Mandovi in the distance. Note the unique temple design.

After a sumptuous lunch at the Rock Inn Restaurant, we decided to head to the Koti Tirth Tali – an ancient site that used to be a significant pilgrimage point once upon a time. It is said that this used to be the Saptakoteshwara Temple, the kul devta of the Kadamba kings. It is now protected by the ASI. It was a peaceful place and we found the ancient architecture very beautiful. Just a little further down the road from the Koti Tirth Tali is a beautiful Shiva temple. When we visited it was calm and clean, and right on the banks of the Mandovi. We spent some time gazing at the beautiful lake surrounded by mangroves, and even spotted a snake swimming in the water!

All the islands in Goa are connected by ferries and I think it would be interesting to spend a day island hopping on a future trip.

CIPA – Center for Indo Portuguese Arts

We stumbled upon CIPA during a three-week stay in Goa during the second lockdown. The place had just opened up and we spent some time browsing through the 200-year old heritage building, looking at the books, the hand painted tiles and other art. We also spoke to Orlando, the owner who told us about the Portuguese connection and his work to keep the Portuguese heritage alive in Goa. Incidentally, he has learned the traditional art of tile painting in Portugal and can customise tiles on order.

Panjim.

On the way to CIPA.

We met Orlando again and just as we were about to leave he told us about the Serenate concert they were having in the evening. We ended up returning to CIPA that evening for an eventful night of music and homemade Portuguese snacks. Serenading was very common in Fontainhas, where a boy would attempt to woo a girl by singing outside her balcony in the night. If she appreciated the gesture him and his entourage might be invited inside for some snacks. The night was full of revelry as the musicians asked the audience to join in the music and even asked for requests from the crowd. This was the cultural aspect of Goa, and I feel this should be on everyone’s itinerary.

Mario de'Miranda

An illustration of serenading in Fontainhas by celebrated Goan artist Mario de’Miranda.

Below are a few images from our wonderful vacation.

Ferry to Chorao.

On the ferry to Chorao island – turned out to be the wrong ferry!

Ice cream therapy.

After a hot day of walking around – ice cream was indeed therapy.

Koti Tirth Tali

The ancient site of Koti Tirth Tali was too beautiful not to take a few yoga shots.

 

I realise I’ve written another ‘Off the Beaten Track’ blog before.  It’s about Coonoor and you can find it here.

Travels

Contextualising Yoga Day

June 22, 2023

The International Day of Yoga is now a part of our collective psyche.  As I prepped for my session for Suta this past weekend, I thought about how this came to be – how this practice which is our parampara came to be celebrated all over the world.  

Yoga has become omnipotent and so laying claim to it seems almost presumptuous.  But we aren’t laying claim to this ancient practice based on hearsay, or because a few yoga texts are in Sanskrit.  We lay claim to it because we have evidence of yoga existing in this region (present day India, Pakistan, Afghanistan) as far back as 2350-2000 BCE.  The Pashupati Seal was found in present day Mohenjo Daro.  Today it sits in the National Museum in Delhi.

Around 1500 BC we find a reference to yoga in the form of the Sanskrit root yuj in the Rig Veda.  The shloka which uses the word describes Indra yoking his horses and drawing them together.  The horses represent the rays of the sun, and when the rays of the sun are drawn back to the source, a dawn happens.  This dawn symbolises the dawn of enlightenment and knowledge.  The Bhagavad Gita is an important yogic text from this time, which gives definitions or descriptions of yoga, such as yogah karmasu kaushalam.  This period is considered the pre-classical period of yoga history.

And after this there is a lull of about 500 years and then some time between 500-400 BC Patanjali’s Yoga Sutras are published – arguably the most recognised yoga text today.  This text talks about the eight-limbed or ashtanga path of yoga and for practitioners today, drives home the point that yoga is not just asana.  This period is also called the classical period of yoga history.

After this we have what is known as the Modern Age of yoga.  T. Krishnamacharya is considered to be the Father of Modern Yoga, a befitting title as he is the teacher to stalwarts like BKS Iyengar, TKV Desikachar, Indra Devi, Pattabi Jois and AG Mohan.  Other notable teachers of this time are:

    • Swami Kuvalyananda – established Kaivalyadham in 1924.  
    • Swami Sivananda – established the Divine Life Society in 1936 and Sivananda Ashrams.
    • Shri Aurobindo – established Auroville near Pondicherry in 1926.
    • TKV Desikachar – established the Krishnamacharya Yoga Mandiram in Chennai.
    • Maharishi Mahesh Yogi – founder of Transcendental Meditation
    • BKS Iyengar – founder of the Iyengar style of yoga.

 

The Story of the International Day of Yoga

So when Modi ji addressed the UN in Dec 2014, he came with this context.  And much in the ethos of yoga in his speech he spoke about three things:

  • He emphasised collective action.  Said developed countries must help the developing countries financially as well as technologically.  This reflects the Gita’s teaching of  yoga karmasu kaushalam which can be loosely translated as yoga is skill in action.
  • Next he spoke about India’s responsibility – that India will also participate in sharing our technologies and capabilities with the SAARC countries.  He cited examples of where India is already doing this.
  • Finally he spoke about the importance of mindful development.  He said that reckless consumption is not mandatory for development.  This is where he brought yoga in and said that if we change our lifestyle and cultivate mindfulness and consciousness, we can deal with the crisis of climate change.

A year later, on June 21, 2015, we celebrated the first International Day of Yoga. 

Yoga – An Intangible Cultural Heritage

In 2016 the Indian govt petitioned UNESCO to include yoga in the list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.  Intangible cultural heritage are practices, expression, knowledge or skill – folklore, customs, beliefs, traditions and even languages.  This brought even more awareness to the place yoga holds in India’s culture and traditions.

The Relevance and Importance of Yoga for Us

During my MSc. a professor once spoke to us about the challenges humanity faces for survival.  Historically our biggest threats have been natural calamities such as floods, draught, famine, pandemics (cholera, Bubonic Plague, Black Death etc.) 

However, today humans are human beings’ biggest threat.  We lack of empathy & sympathy.  We criticise too much, accept too little.  There is too much conflict, too little tolerance.  Our collective mental health is at an all time low.

A resilient person is a person who has a strong mind and a strong body.  Through the practice of yoga we can become more resilient.  Yoga is a holistic solution to the issues and at the risk of sounding fanatical, I’d even say that yoga is important for us to survive as a species.

 

The amazing group who came from all corners of Bangalore to celebrate Yoga Day with us.

The amazing group who came from all corners of Bangalore to celebrate Yoga Day with us.

 

The Suta crew - who made the event seamless and fun.

The Suta crew – who made the event seamless and fun.