Travels

The Thenkani Organic Farm Retreat

January 30, 2025
In good company.

We look very happy here, but just a minute ago we were wondering about the salt in the tea.

Last weekend was our first weekend getaway for 2021.  Our friends were celebrating their 13th wedding anniversary and we decided to make a trip out of it.  As city dwellers we’re always looking for some time out in the great outdoors, sipping some great coffee to the song of early morning birds, and telling stories under the stars around a bonfire.  Although Thenkani Organic Farm Retreat advertises itself as a perfect relaxed weekend away from home, it was anything but that.

Rooms

Thenkani Organic Farm advertises a wooden cottage with two rooms.  This conjures up images of warm, cozy nooks and corners, and even a fireplace thrown in for good measure. Unfortunately the accommodation is devoid of anything remotely cozy.  On top of that it’s not as clean as I’d like it to be.  Not clean at all in fact, the bedsheets were stained, the rugs just give you the icks.  It feels like there’s a film of dust over the entire room.  I felt like I couldn’t exhale – and therefore couldn’t relax.  Needless to say, I wasn’t too happy or comfortable watching Kalindi crawl around the room.

The room upstairs has a loft, with a ladder propped up so to walk up.  It had a thick film of dust on the floor, and I swear I even saw a multi-legged creature crawling there.  Nonetheless, in keeping with my resolution of working out daily in 2025, I managed to do a quick yoga sequence there.

The Case of the Strange Caretaker

The farm employs a talkative caretaker.  Talking is what he did best.  Along with trying to micromanage our farm stay.

The website lists many interesting things that I was looking forward to.  Like a Story Walk, a candle light dinner under the stars, some time in the village checking out the khadi shop – but unfortunately the caretaker seemed to have decided our itinerary for us and none of this was on it.

The first evening he herded us towards a tree under which they had organised a small soiree for us to enjoy some tea, pakodas and nature.  When I asked for some coffee they told us there was no coffee at the farm, not in the evening.  He went on to blabber something about coffee not remaining warm by the time it got to the small gazebo outside.  We went back and forth for some time during which he tried to

The bonfire lasted for about an hour, and and the help at the farm were too lazy, unmindful to keep it going for us.  He said he’d be back every 15 minutes to check on us, and he came once, and the effort to call him was outmatched by the actual joy we had at the fire.  Unfortunately, the sky was overcast so we couldn’t see any stars or constellations.  I think we saw Orion’s Belt briefly.

We were looking forward to the short hike and maybe even a visit to the elephant watering hole.  But we were told that because of the rains neither one of these things is a good idea.  So although their website lists many activities, you may end up stuck in the cabin without much to do.  We enjoyed it because we were with friends and that always makes for a good time.

Overall I think for Rs.8700/- you may not be looking for luxury, but cleanliness is non-negotiable.  And you always, always look for hospitality, of which there is a stark lack of in this place.  I, for one, couldn’t get out of the Thenkani Organic Farm Retreat fast enough.  We left, with a ‘goodie bag’ consisting of more lemons than anyone really needs.  Needless to say, we won’t be back here, and nor will any of our friends.

I love escaping into nature over the weekend, and here’s an account of a great farm stay from a long long time ago.

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